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The only regret we had about our Japan trip was not spending more time in Kyoto and giving it the attention it truly deserves. When we first arrived at the old historical capital, it looked like any other modern city in Japan. All it took was a mere few steps out of the train station to realise the beauty of this cultural muse, and how it is engulfed by hidden gems that are just waiting to be unravelled. A night in Kyoto simply wasn’t adequate, and yet it was enough to make us fall head over heels in love.
What we loved most about Kyoto was that it had everything that we associate with Japan – a rich culture and historic heritage, serene temples and ancient shrines, naturally enchanting landscapes, and of course local cuisines that are worth dying for.
We were also entranced by how Kyoto seemed like it was frozen in time. It was as though developments and/or constructions of the city had been ceased decades ago – making us feel as though we’ve entered a different era, and giving it an unparalleled mystique that can not be found elsewhere. Unlike most (if not all) cities in Japan, there is an obvious lack and/or absence of skyscrapers in Kyoto. But I am convinced that that is what makes the city prominently special.
For a more authentic experience of Kyoto, and an insight into the lifestyle and culture of Japanese people, we had opted for a traditional Japanese guesthouse as our choice of accommodation. It was a quaint little house nestled in a quiet yet distinctive neighbourhood – conveniently situated just a couple of kilometres away from the Kyoto train station. To our best knowledge, the house had three rooms – our host’s (whom was a tremendously kind and welcoming local) room, the private room upstairs (our’s), and the shared room (which was only occupied by a Taiwanese lad at the time) on the lower floor. The rooms were basic but at the same time full of character. Ours in particular was massive although that was most likely due to the absence of furniture (other than a standing fan, there was absolutely nothing else). It was a typical traditional Japanese room complete with classic wooden decor, sliding doors, a tatami-matted floor, and in the wooden sliding cupboards were our respective futons. Precisely like how we imagined. Just like most guesthouses and/or Ryokans, the bathing area and toilet were communal.
The first place we visited in Kyoto was the idealistic Arashiyama Bamboo Forest. Standing amidst the soaring stalks of greens was like being in another world. The thick bamboo pillars seem to continue endlessly in every direction, and witnessing them gracefully swaying back and forth in the wind, illuminated in the soft morning light invokes a bizarre sense of a tranquil and intimate scene. But trust me when I say this – no picture can capture the feeling of being in the midst of this magical place. The whole thing has a conspicuous sense of otherness that is quite unlike that of any forest we’ve ever been to. Scattered around the forest are numerous gardens, little nooks and shops, as well as places of worship including the eminent Tenryuji Temple.
When the crowd started to multiply we decided to take a slow walk towards the Iwatayama Monkey Park. And that’s when we realised that once you leave the tourist sites behind, the real adventure begins. We ended up spending our afternoon taking our time and getting lost through the quiet neighbourhoods and secluded residential streets. Between these alleys were more unique and picturesque temples, minus the overwhelming crowds. After promenading for what seemed like a thousand kilometres, we found a cute little cafe where we quenched our thirst with come ice cold latte and lemonade while we watched the locals go through about their day.
Later during the day we journeyed to what is universally known as Japan’s Geisha district – Gion. As is the rest of Kyoto, walking through the streets of Gion felt like stepping back in time. Boulevards of the area are lined with beautifully preserved wooden townhouses that include teahouses, shops, and restaurants. These quaint little buildings give Gion an unparalleled old world charm, especially during the evenings when warm lights illuminate the surface of its walls. We had dinner at Naritaya Yakiniku, a halal restaurant located in the quieter side of Gion. One of our favorite Japanese delicacies to enjoy is yakiniku, and Naritaya didn’t disappoint. However, what impressed us the most wasn’t the food; it was the man who had handled the restaurant during our visit. Have you ever seen one person managing a whole restaurant by himself? We have. This said man had taken our orders, prepared our drinks and meals, cleaned up the tables, acted as the cashier all at once. All that responsibility on his shoulders, and he still manages to fulfil it all with a smile. Respect.
The next morning, we woke up and left our Airbnb early in the morning in a hopeful attempt to beat the crowds at the Fushimi Inari Shrine. With the seemingly infinite arcade of unapologetically red shrine gates (or torii as the Japanese call them) spread across the heavily wooded hills, gallivanting through the monumental Fushimi Inari Shrine complex was akin to entering an unfamiliar otherworldly dimension. The unprecedented artistry of the notorious shrine is sure to instil a formidable sense of wonder at the beauty of traditional Japanese culture.
The hike up the pathway involves a bit of stair climbing, but if you take it moderately, it’s not too arduous. For you parents, it’s best to leave the strollers behind. We made the ludicrous mistake of not doing that, and instantly regretted it the moment we arrived at the base of the shrine. Along the path, you’ll come across what is probably the most famous location of Fushimi Inari, and that is where the torii splits into two pathways, which also marks the beginning of the shrine’s true attraction – the hypnotic path of a thousand torii gates. The entire complex consists of five shrines, and as you wander up the mountain, you’ll discover that it is lined with dozens of other sub-shrines. Unfortunately, we didn’t make it to the peak of the mountain as Qaleed had decided to surprise us with a diaper full of fresh poop (story of our lives) midway up.
On the way out of the shrine premises, we stumbled upon a little food market selling assorted Japanese snacks. I’d say stuffing our faces silly with various local delicacies was the perfect way to end our short trip to this magical place.
Kyoto, I assure you that you haven’t seen the last of us.