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Osaka, the laid-back counterpart to it’s prim and proper sibling that is Tokyo. The acres of concrete that line the streets are veiled in beaming neon lights, and animated shopfronts – packing more color than most. This is a city that unabashedly calls for attention. Home to some of Japan’s tastiest food (hello, takoyaki!), diverse fashion trends, and warmest natives, Osaka is indeed a city that pulses to it’s own unique beat. Unlike other places in Japan, Osaka is not really about specific attractions, but rather a place to be experienced in it’s entirety. It is the city itself that is the prime attraction.
After experiencing Tokyo and falling head over heels for the city, and all it has to offer, we made the impulsive move of booking ourselves tickets to the land of the rising sun yet again. We hadn’t had enough of Japan’s allure, and in the end, our intense hankering to see other parts of the country had led us to Osaka. We had merely a week to plan our trip, and do all the necessary bookings – which I initially thought was impossible. But after long nights and a few panic attacks in between, I pulled through, and came up with a decent itinerary.
Family and friends alike have asked us – Tokyo or Osaka? Well, if you have the time and funds, you should definitely give the two places a go. Both Tokyo and Osaka are splendid examples of a modern Japanese city. Even so, you’d be surprised at how different the two are from one another. Both cities are distinctly unique in their own special way. While Tokyo is polished and exorbitant, Osaka is relaxed and down to earth.
The iconic metropolis, that is Osaka, allows you to enjoy both sides of the Japanese experience: the modern and the traditional. Osaka is a great place to experience a modern Japanese city in all it’s futuristic and hi-tech glory, but on a more approachable scale, and for significantly less money than Tokyo! Being in the Kansai region, Osaka is also conveniently located near some of Japan’s most prominent sightseeing locations. The city is just a few minutes train ride away from Kyoto, Nara, and Kobe. Lets just say that the possibilities of your Kansai trip are endless.
Wander through the city aimlessly, and you’ll be in for a couple of pleasant surprises. Unwind with some Japanese coffee, devour an ice-cream or two, and let the experience of Osaka wash over you.
Getting There
Landing in Osaka is pretty straight forward as there is only one international airport, and that is the Kansai International Airport (KIX). Most major cities all around the world have flights to and from Osaka – be it directly or indirectly.
Where We Stayed
We stayed at two different places in Osaka during our trip, both of them being Airbnb apartments. The first apartment was located at a pleasant quintessential Japanese neighbourhood in Ikuno, where you can observe children clad in uniforms joyfully race each other to school, residents politely exchange greetings as they go about their daily routines, and streets that are lined with captivating stores that seem to have been there for the last couple of decades.
The second apartment we stayed at was in Fukushima, a modern and well-built neighbourhood that is dominated by impressive high-rises. I’ve previously mentioned that apartments and hotels are very small in Japan, but that certainly wasn’t the case with our second apartment in Osaka. The building itself was a somewhat elite number complete with a top notch security system. Our apartment was way bigger than we had assumed. It came with a kitchen, washing machine/dryer, toilet, bathroom, and even a balcony. Our room itself was bigger than the other apartments we have stayed at in Japan. We definitely hit the jackpot with this one – especially considering the price we had paid for it (below RM200/night)!
Once again, taxis are profoundly expensive in Japan, hence it is important to choose an apartment and/or hotel that is located near a train station.
Transportation
The train and/or subway were the only modes of transportation we had used in getting around Osaka. Well that, and lots and lots of walking.
Those who are unfamiliar with Japan may find themselves perplexed by the complicated Osaka public transport system – even the ones who’ve been to Japan before (like us)! Needless to say, Osaka has a highly impressive and efficient train system, but it is far from being similar to the one in Tokyo. The train network is basically built upon a combination of municipal subways, the Japan Railway system, and a whole multitude of privately-owned railway systems.
Analogous to Tokyo’s JR Yamanote Line, the JR Osaka Loop Line is the most eminent line in Osaka, and just like the name signifies, it does a loop around the city centre. You can also use the other JR lines to travel to and from the Kansai Airport, Universal Studios, and other cities within the Kansai region like Kyoto, Nara, and Kobe for instance.
Personally I feel that the most convenient way to get around Osaka is by taking the subway as the bulk of the things to do and see in the city are more easily accessed by it. The extensive municipal subway network cover most areas of Osaka – allowing you to get just about anywhere within the core of the city with absolute ease.
Purchasing individual tickets can be time-consuming and a hassle, hence it’s best to opt for one of Osaka’s many day passes or prepaid IC cards. Each pass has different perks and conditions. You must fully understand the coverage of a pass and/or card before purchasing them. These were the two picks for our Kansai trip:-
- Osaka Amazing Pass (One Day) : This pass gives you one-day unlimited rides on the subways, buses, and certain private railways within Osaka. Other perks of this pass include free admission to several renowned sightseeing places like the Umeda Sky Building, and the Osaka Castle. The pass also permits discounts at a myriad of other facilities and stores. The Osaka Amazing Pass is for those who want to explore Osaka widely for one day. If proper planning is not given, the pass may end up costing you more money than buying individual tickets. We bought our passes for Y2,300 each at the tourist information centre over at Kansai International Airport.
- Kansai One Pass: The Kansai One Pass is basically an ICOCA card exclusively for foreigners. They are both prepaid cards that can be used on most public transportations, and even at some shops. There are no transportation discounts permitted, but the benefit of it is not having to buy individual tickets each time. The only difference between the ICOCA card and the Kansai One Pass is that the latter includes discounts at certain tourist favorites. We bought our Kansai One Pass at the JR train station at the Kansai International Airport.
An important thing to note is that being at the right station, and at the right track, does not mean that you will get on the right train. Some trains will not stop at your desired destination especially the express and rapid trains. Yes, there is a difference. This is where apps like “Japan Rail” and/or “Japan Travel” come in handy. These two helped us a lot!
Things To Do
Dotonbori
Osaka is every gastronomist’s wonderland – offering some of the finest, and widest assortment of street food in possibly the whole country. Out of the many eating spots in Osaka, Dotonbori is the place where you’ll be able to experience the ultimate culinary adventure.
The masses of neon lights, maze-like streets lined with unbelievable number of restaurants and amusement facilities will leave you hypnotised. Dotonbori is famous for its highly extravagant signages and neon billboards which include a giant moving crab, an oversized pufferfish, a somewhat angry-looking chef, a hard to miss octopus – all of which are vying for the public’s attention as if there’s some kind of unspoken competition. Walking on the streets of Dotonbori feels like walking through an eccentric amusement park – one that smells incredibly good.
Dotonbori is also where you will find the iconic Glico running man signboard which is located just above the Ebisubashi Bridge. It is quite a sight seeing tourists and locals alike trying to imitate the running man’s pose at once. In the case of you needing a break from indulging yourself silly with all the culinary goodness, you can put your feet up inside one of the many cafes along the Dotonbori canal which also looks out on to the Tonbori river, and just soak in the exciting and lively atmosphere that Dotonbori has to offer. Dotonbori is truly the heart and soul of Osaka. A street that is always full of noise, full of light, full of energy. A street that never sleeps.
Shinsaibashi
Shinsaibashi is a shopper’s paradise that is able meet any taste. Starting from one end of the Dotonbori Bridge, Shinsaibashi is a 600-meter long shopping arcade that boasts a plethora of stores from high street fashion brands to upscale department stores to high end international names. However, the arcade is more than just for shopping – it is also jam-packed with all kinds of restaurants and cafes serving every kind of delicacy you can possibly think of.
Like most famous spots in Japan, Shinsaibashi is almost always crowded with locals and tourists alike. Imagine trying to navigate through a long covered strip along with thousands of other individuals – it is definitely not for the agoraphobic. And it’s also best not to visit on a weekend. But if you don’t mind the crowd, Shinsaibashi is an excellent place to people watch, and get a sense of the latest local trends and fashion.
Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan
The Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan is a place that will take you into a whole new world – truly living up to their reputation of being one of Japan’s most beautiful aquariums. The primary reason of our visit to the aquarium was to delight our son who has a major obsession with sea creatures, but as it turns out, the parents were just as equally captivated. The Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan introduces numerous forms of sea life inhabiting the Pacific Rim in an eminently monumental way.
Hundreds of species and thousands of sea life are displayed in fifteen different tanks – each representing a specific region of the Pacific Rim. Antarctic penguins, peculiar looking jellyfish, unreasonably cute otters, Monterey Bay seals, unearthly spider crabs… these were just a few of them. You start at the top, and slowly spiral down through the myriad of exhibits in a circular motion. At the centre of the spiral is the aquarium’s ginormous central tank which represents the Pacific Ocean. The tank is nine meters deep and home to different kinds of fish, manta rays, and the aquarium’s undisputed stars – the whale sharks, which happens to be one of our son’s favorite sea creatures.
The central tank was designed to display the sea life over several floors, making it possible to observe them from different depths and perspectives. It was truly a remarkable sight – the fish seemed as if they were flying when viewed from below, and we were left in awe every time a whale shark slowly swam past us just like a couple of submarines. Our little one couldn’t keep his excitement – running from tank to tank, squealing with absolute delight. The parents may have let out a few squeals as well.
Tempozan Ferris Wheel
Sitting next to the Osaka Kaiyukan Aquarium is the humongous Tempozan Ferris Wheel. It is a whopping 112.5 meters in height, and offers breathtaking panoramic views of the sea, the mountains, and what seems like the entire city of Osaka.
We were given a choice of going on a normal car or an entirely transparent one, and of course despite my fear of heights, we went with the latter. A ride lasts seventeen minutes, but when you are onboard, it honestly feels so much shorter. The view that welcomed us was nothing short of spectacular – so much so that it made me forget about my fear of heights. It was truly a feast for the eyes. The higher we got, the more incredible the view developed. At the very top, we could easily spot the Akashi Straits Bridge, Universal Studios Japan, Mt. Rokko and also downtown Osaka in the distance. The three of us thoroughly enjoyed soaking in the panoramic view of the Osaka cityscape against the perfectly clear blue sky.
Umeda Sky Building
With a silhouette so distinct, It’s impossible to miss the presence of the Umeda Sky Building. The landmark that looks like it belongs in the space age is comprised of two forty-story buildings, connected at the top by a circular roof that enables you to see the entirety of Osaka and beyond. The circular roof is the observation tower also known as the “Floating Garden” – which ironically despite it’s name, does not have a single fauna in sight (I was expecting a legit garden!). Instead, expect illuminated floors within the open air sky-walk and a breathtaking 360 degree view of skyscrapers, the metropolitan and its millions of inhabitants.
I believe that the views from the Umeda Sky Building is worth coming to either during the day or night, but we went just before the sun had set, and stayed on until it got dark, and I have to say that the experience was exceptionally magical. Imagine watching the sun retreat into an astounding sunset, while the lights of the metropolitan twinkle around you as they transition into the night. The views from the “Floating Garden” are beyond belief, and being so high up above the ever bustling city, with almost no noise except for the sound of the wind, gives an acute sense of peace and tranquility.
Momofuku Instant Ramen Museum
As a devout fan and an avid eater of instant noodles, it’s no question that this would be on my list. To celebrate the prodigious creation that many around the world are thankful for, the Momofuku Instant Ramen Museum opened it’s doors to the world to come forth and understand the history and significance of the culinary wonder that is instant ramen.
Entrance to the museum is free – yes, you read that right. The exhibits at the Momofuku Museum illustrate the origin of Cup Noodles and how the chicken ramen was invented by Momofuku Ando. Equally interesting is the instant noodle tunnel which depicts the story of how instant ramen evolved from a singular product to a worldwide infatuation. The tunnel also features half a century of instant noodle package designs that are sold all around the globe.
The highlight of the museum is undoubtedly getting to personalise your own blend of Cup Noodles, and decorating the cup based on your creativity, to take home for Y300. And if you’re feeling a little more adventurous, you can also opt for the “Chicken Ramen Factory” class available at the second floor of the museum. Reservations are needed to be made prior to the visit.
Disclaimer: For the Muslims, there are no halal and/or vegetation options available for the personalised Cup Noodles. Even the vegetable and seafood soup contain pork elements, and unfortunately you are not allowed to get your Cup Noodles made without choosing a soup. Hence, visiting the museum may not be as worthy as the main attractions are the “My Cup Noodle” and “Chicken Ramen Factory”.
Shinsekai
Walking through the streets of Shinsekai feels like entering a time capsule. Despite it’s name which directly translates to “New World”, Shinsekai has an incredibly retro vibe to it. Leisure haunts, shopping arcades, and cheap traditional Japanese restaurants, that are still decidedly in the 1960’s style, bombard the area around the Tsutenkaku Tower, the symbol of the Shinsekai district. There is an observation deck at the top of the Tsutenkaku Tower which I personally feel is dismissible, but there were a few exhibitions and displays in the iconic tower that were fascinating – especially the ones that take you back to Shinsekai from a hundred years ago, and beyond.
We also had tea at the quaintest little cafe that is run by an old non-english speaking Japanese couple. You know the type of diners you see in old mafia movies? It was exactly like that. We had the thickest set of pancakes that afternoon. This part of Osaka is utterly different from the otherwise well-composed atmosphere that Japan is widely recognised for. Shinsekai is grittier, grungier, with a whole lot of interesting surprises on the side.
Universal Studios Japan
Universal Studios Japan was unashamedly at the top of this adrenaline junkie’s list. There were two reasons why I was especially looking forward to visiting the park; 1) The Wizarding World of Harry Potter 2) I know that the Japanese will never disappoint. And, I was right, they didn’t.
Out of the three Universal Studios that I’ve had the privilege of visiting, Universal Studios Japan without a doubt has the best rides. Traveling with a toddler, we were initially concerned about having to queue for the rides twice which means having less time to cover the park. But worry not, parents! The people of Universal Studios didn’t forget about us as they offer “Child Switch” services. As a matter of fact, we got to beat the queue for more than one ride because of it!
The only unattractive thing about the park is the enormous crowds, and the never-ending queues. Thus, my ultimate tip would be to plan ahead which rides or sections of the park you essentially want to cover, and work around it because covering the whole of Universal Studios Japan in one day is downright impossible. If you have a big and expandable budget (which we did not), invest on the USJ Express Pass!
Osaka Castle
Right smack in the midst of a modern city of urban concrete blocks is the notorious Osaka Castle, the stunning symbol of Osaka’s pride in it’s past. The beautiful castle played a crucial role in the unification of Japan during the samurai era of the sixteenth century. Standing in an expansive lawn covered park, today the building continues to honour and pay tribute to Toyotomi Hideyoshi by housing a museum that is solely dedicated to his life as a warlord, a leader, and a legend.
The current structure of the Osaka Castle is actually a reconstruction of the original that was done in 1931, and further renovated in 1997. The castle boasts eight floors of displays related to the castle’s history. Historical artefacts, vivid screen paintings, scale models of the original sixteenth century castle town, and even samurai costumes you can try on for a few yens. On the uppermost floor is an observation deck which circles the tower and from which you can revel in remarkable views of the city.
Tenjimbashi-suji Shopping Street
For those who are in search of an authentic experience while in Osaka, give visiting Tenjimbashi-Suji shopping street, where there are predominantly more locals than tourists for once, a go. At a profound 2.6 kilometres and spanning the distance of nearly three subway stations, Tenjimbashi-suji is the longest shopping street in Japan. The shopping street emits a friendly neighbourhood atmosphere and a somewhat vintage vibe.
You can find just about anything and everything at the shopping street – clothes, shoes, books, souvenirs, fresh produce, electronics… the list is endless. Between the shops are various little eateries and cafes that will match any traveler’s budget. I’d recommend Tenjimbashi-suji for those who want to get an insight on what everyday life is for the locals of Osaka.
Visit Other Parts of Kansai
The best thing about Osaka is that it is within the Kansai region, making it just a few minutes train ride away from some of the best cities in Japan. If you don’t make full use of Osaka’s geographic advantage, then you’re in for a big loss, and will most probably be haunted by regret. Okay, kidding. Maybe.
On a serious note – you owe it to yourself to explore other parts of Kansai. Japan is so remarkably beautiful, and each different city will continue to surprise and amaze you in it’s own unique way. During our week-long Osaka excursion, we managed to squeeze in trips to Kyoto and Nara.
Traveling Tips
- Do your research prior to your trip. It is easy to get overwhelmed when in Japan, especially if it is your first time and/or you are unfamiliar with the country. Diving headfirst without some research will result in you wasting precious exploring time, and most likely missing out on the true gems of the country.
- Learn to differentiate between the normal trains, the rapid trains, and the express trains. It’s going to save you a lot of time and confusion.
- Wear comfortable shoes. You will walk more than you have ever walked in your life – don’t say I didn’t warn you.
- Pocket/portable wifi is essential. This little device will make planning your way around Osaka so much easier, because as I have mentioned, all the different train and subway routes can get more than a little daunting. You can rent your portable wifi from Travel Recommends like we did, and enjoy unlimited 4G wifi with up to five people. Several hosts on Airbnb may also include it when you book with them.
- There were three mobile apps that I used religiously during our trip – NAVITIME for Japan Travel to plan, and map our train routes; Halal Navi to find halal food and places to pray; and the good ol’ Google Maps.
- Eat all the takoyaki and okonomiyaki your stomach permits you to!