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Tokyo is not for the weak. It is a gigantic megapolis where cultural extremes seem to compliment each other. Where modernity meets tradition, and serenity meets haste. A visit to this vast city is akin to encountering a whole different planet altogether. It’s ability to implement and absorb contemporary influences whilst remaining true to the Japanese tradition makes it different from anything else in the world. It is where creative expression and being unique are wildly celebrated. Where dressing in vivid attires and donning exaggerated make up are considered a norm, but so is being clad in a suit.
Visiting Japan has been a dream of ours for so many years, but always seemed to be set back mostly due to the fact that it is a very expensive place to travel in. But our longing to see the country kept growing and tugging at our heart strings, so one day we just said to each other “Screw it, lets just book our tickets, and go“. And that’s how we ended up making one of the best decisions of our lives.
After months worth of anticipation, off we flew to Tokyo on our first overseas trip as a whole family. Being in Tokyo for the first time felt like being high on a heart-palpitating substance – there were suddenly so many things to fathom at once. So many people, billboards, advertisements, so many things to listen to, to smell, to experience… Blink, and you’ll miss something. I found my whole being on the edge of wanting to explode one too many times!
Despite it being home to more than 13 million habitants, Tokyo is the least bit anarchic due to the people’s disciplined and orderly nature. A week in what is now one of our most favorite cities in the world wasn’t even close to being enough. Tokyo is an enormous place and each neighbourhood has a crazy amount of great attractions. We can’t wait to be back, and explore more as well as visit other parts of Japan that we’re sure are equally as, if not more, beautiful as Tokyo.
If you’re heading to Japan, don’t forget to rent your portable wifi from Travel Recommends! Enjoy unlimited 4G wifi with up to five people wherever and whenever you want!
Getting There
There are two international airports in Tokyo, one being Haneda International Airport, and the other being Narita International Airport. If you are first time Tokyo visitors like we were, you would be wondering which airport to fly into.
After some research we can say that it depends on two primary factors – which airline you’re using, and the location of your accommodation in Tokyo. Some airlines only fly into Narita, some airlines only fly into Haneda, and some may even fly into both. So what is the difference? Well, the only major difference between the two world-class airports is their distance to the central of Tokyo (where most of you will probably be heading). Haneda International Airport is located nearer to the central of Tokyo as compared to Narita International Airport. Although there are plenty of public transportation options commuting to the central of Tokyo from Narita International Airport, the shorter distance from Haneda International Airport makes it the significantly cheaper choice. For this trip, we flew to and from Haneda International Airport.
Where We Stayed
Traveling with a kid means that hostels are totally out of the picture for us, hence we rented an Airbnb during our stay – a quaint little apartment in Taito. Apartments and hotels are very small in Japan, but they often come well equipped and are well organised. Taxis are profoundly expensive there, hence it is important to choose an apartment and/or hotel that is located near a train station.
The neighbourhood we stayed at, Taito, is an amalgam of both classic Japanese culture and modern influences. Unlike certain parts of Tokyo that have been enthusiastically developed, sometimes entirely wiping traces of their charming past out, Taito has successfully preserved parts of it’s neighbourhood with antiquarian Japanese characteristics. It’s not too far from the centre, easily accessible by train, and near to several attractions like the Tokyo Skytree, Asakusa, Ueno Park.. to name a few. We absolutely loved our time there, and highly recommend it to those who want to get away from the hustle and bustle of Tokyo!
Transportation
Unless you have an enormous and flexible budget, your primary mode of transportation would be the train and/or subway. Tokyo is covered by an extensive network of train and subway lines, which are operated by a myriad of different companies. It can get more than a little overwhelming, especially if you dive into the city head first without any research.
The most prominent train line would have to be the JR Yamanote Line, a circle that connects Tokyo’s multiple city centres. And then there is the Tokyo subway network which is operated by two different companies, Tokyo Metro and Toei.
Before purchasing your tickets, you have to first figure out your fare. Fares are commonly posted on a large subway map above the vending machines, but most of it are in Japanese. Some stations have a smaller map in English posted on the side. This is where apps like “Japan Rail” and/or “Japan Travel” come in handy. Purchasing individual tickets can be time-consuming and a hassle, hence it’s best to opt for one of Japan’s many day passes or prepaid IC cards. We got the 72-hour Tokyo Subway Ticket that permitted us an unlimited usage of all subway lines. And for the times when we need to go on a JR train (which was hardly, to be honest), we would just buy individual tickets.
As I said, it can get a little overwhelming, but it’s really just a matter of getting used to. Each line is color-coded, so use that as your guide. For instance, if you’re transferring to the Hibiya Line from another line, just follow the grey signs to the Hibiya Line platform. Each line is also assigned a letter (“H” for Hibiya), and each station along a line is assigned a number in addition to the letter (“H08” for Ginza Station on Hibiya Line). The numbers of the stations along each line are in chronological order, so that makes it easy for you to navigate which direction you’re heading to, and to know the number of stops to your desired destination.
All the trains and subways operate until sometime around midnight, so unless you want to spend a huge sum of money on a taxi, plan your days accordingly and be sure to not miss the last train/subway!
Things to do
Meiji Jingu Shrine
Dedicated to the souls of Emperor Meiji, and his wife, Empress Shoken, Meiji Shrine is a refreshing oasis in the middle of Tokyo that provides an escape from the tumultuous city life. It is admirably serene, austere, and unlike any other Asian places of worship which are normally decked in bright, and vibrant colors. The entrance to the shrine grounds is marked by a beautiful gargantuan torii gate which I believe was constructed by Japanese Cypress. Its impressive entry point is akin to an entrance into a different world, after which the sights and sounds of the ever buzzing Tokyo are replaced by an astounding tranquil forest.
If luck is on your side, you will be able to witness a traditional wedding procession through the courtyard of the shrine. We were lucky enough to have witnessed two!
Yoyogi Park
Yoyogi Park is the rowdy neighbour of the Meiji Shrine. The park is known for it’s festive and jubilant atmosphere. The peaceful sea of green that is Yoyogi is where people from all walks of life come together for a weekend picnic, to play some outdoor sports, to walk their dogs, and to simply relax and rejuvenate. It may not be as peaceful as the Meiji Shrine, but it is still a fantastic getaway from the hectic streets of Tokyo city.
Yoyogi draws all sorts of characters and talents (especially on the weekends); from eccentric musicians to hip-hop dancers to quirky cosplayers to sports enthusiasts, and even to costume wearing and skateboarding animals. It is the place where it’s okay to express oneself and be a little different.
Buy some Japanese delicacies, sit back, relax, and enjoy the many wondrous amusements that Yoyogi has to offer.
Takeshita Street
I have always been enthralled by the eccentric street style, and the culture of the Japanese youth. So naturally our Tokyo trip wasn’t going to be complete without us heading to Takeshita Street in Harajuku, the epicentre of Japanese youth culture and fashion. The pedestrian-only pathway is lined with spunky fashion boutiques, thrift stores, crepe and dessert stands, and 100 yen shops. Big commercialised chain shops are present too, but most shops in Takeshita are run by small-scale indie entrepreneurs.
Like most places in Tokyo, prepare yourself for the sensory overload that you’ll most likely experience upon arriving at Takeshita. That, and the massive crowds that meander through the obviously illustrious street. We have gone to Takeshita on both a weekend and a weekday, and what I can say is that I highly discourage a weekend visit – especially to those who are claustrophobic. It is impossible to experience and enjoy Takeshita when it is implausibly crammed by thousands of other tourists and locals (and when I say thousands, I mean thousands).
Takeshita Street and Harajuku may be notorious for their fashion subcultures, but another symbolic thing about them is their infinite variety of Japanese snacks and desserts. Crepes (a Harajuku must), oversized cotton candies, flavored hot potatoes, soft serve ice cream, cream puffs… you wouldn’t know where to begin! Don’t forget to keep your eyes peeled for the goth and/or sweet lolita girls – although there were so much less of them than we had expected.
Shibuya
There is no better place to experience Tokyo’s vastness and its massive crowd than Shibuya. State of the art fashion boutiques, extensive dining options for all budgets, pop-up art galleries… Shibuya has everything and anything your mind can possibly think of. One of the things that I was looking forward to doing was experiencing the Shibuya Crossing. Having marvelled at it in so many movies, it’s only natural that it’s top on my to-do list. Crossing the single square with hundreds of other people, in the heart of Tokyo, is an experience that can’t be missed. It’s akin to walking through a well organised urban flock. A flock that exudes the Tokyo spirit and energy. We unashamedly crossed it several times.
While it may be the star attraction, there are a bountiful of other things to do in Shibuya beyond the famed pedestrian scramble. Dine, shop, party, sleep – it’s just a matter of knowing where to begin. Shibuya is also the place where you will find the statue of the legendary Hachiko.
Imperial Palace
Unfortunately, most of the areas within the Imperial Palace is not available for public use (it’s only opened to the public two days a year), but you can still explore around the outside of the palace, and revel in the views of the moats, bridges, and walls of the palace. The Imperial Palace East Garden is however, opened to the public throughout the year, and is another great escape from the concrete jungle that is Tokyo. And for you history enthusiasts, you would definitely appreciate the Yasukuni-jinja Shrine, where a handful of war criminals are enshrined, as well as the adjoining Yushukan Museum, where you will be able to understand Japan’s wartime history from a Japanese nationalist’s point of view. We were unlucky in the sense that we didn’t get to fully enjoy the Imperial Palace in all it’s glory as it rained the whole time we were there, but we enjoyed our morning there nonetheless!
Shinjuku
If you feel a sensory-overload, and on the verge of exploding in Shibuya, then this place is where your brain will be blown out into a million and one pieces. Welcome to Shinjuku, the definition of an urban jungle, and Tokyo’s boundless entertainment hub. A place that exists at an incredibly colossal scale that it somewhat feels like an enormous mystery that will never be solved. You could be navigating through the streets of Shinjuku for a month, and still not discover everything it has to offer – what more just a measly day.
Finding your way through Shinjuku Station, a combination of several train terminals and connecting subway lines – making it the busiest and largest station in Japan, is arduous enough, but when you finally find the correct exit, figuring out how to ensure you don’t miss out on Shinjuku’s plethora of shops, exquisite delicacies, and one of a kind tourist sights is a challenge on it’s own!
Akihabara
Akihabara, the part of Tokyo where computer aficionados used to come to get parts to build their own machines. Nowadays it has become a virtual playground for anime and manga fanatics. It is the audaciously animated epicentre of the Japanese Otaku culture. Day and night, the electric city has a dynamic energy (well, most of Tokyo does to be honest), where the main streets are lined with tall buildings covered in bright and vibrant ads of various brands and anime characters alike. Seriously, there are massive panels and signages everywhere, and just so much to digest. You will be endlessly entertained by Akihabara’s array of gaming palaces, enthusiastically themed cafes, gargantuan electronic shops, and manga shops. The line between fantasy and reality is immensely thin when in Akihabara. We spent most of our time in charismatic Akihabara geeking in the arcades and gawking at manga shops. I personally feel that Akihabara is a must must must go to place in Tokyo – whether you’re into anime and/or manga or not. There’s truly nothing like it anywhere in the world.
Tokyo Skytree
Tokyo Skytree was the first thing we saw when we exited our Airbnb every morning, hence we were pretty psyched to go visit the actual place. The tower’s main function is as a broadcasting tower, but it has since developed into one of the capital’s go to destinations for tourists. It’s 634 meters high observation deck offers visitors a panoramic view of the urban metropolis that is Tokyo city. It is quite stunning, but unfortunately we didn’t get to go up due to bad and foggy weather. We ended up exploring the enormous, multi-storied, dining and entertainment complex at the base of the tower called Tokyo Skytree Town.
Odaiba
This man-made island located in Tokyo Bay is a great escape from them confines of Tokyo. Odaiba has something for everyone. The island is known for it’s commercial nature – from amusement parks to museums, onsens to auto showrooms, countless shopping malls to television headquarters… It is basically one huge entertainment facility on a tract of artificial land. Odaiba is also home to a myriad of high class hotels and apartments giving it a sophisticated feel. The island, it’s architectures, and all that it has to offer are the definition of modern Tokyo in my eyes. An iconic part of Odaiba is the rainbow bridge that connects the island to the rest of Tokyo. A great sight to look out for when the sun sets. The island is also a great place to see the Tokyo skyline – especially from it’s 360 foot tall ferris wheel!
Tokyo Disneyland
As a Disney enthusiast, Tokyo Disneyland was obviously the first thing listed on our itinerary! One might say that all Disneylands are the same, but I beg to differ. Yes, the rides may be similar but the atmosphere of each park is unique to it’s own – especially in Tokyo Disneyland where you’ll witness locals of all ages zealously clad in Disney-related costumes. Another anomalous thing about Tokyo Disneyland is the assortment of peculiar flavored snacks that they offer. Think winter melon flavored churros, curry flavored popcorn, soy sauce flavored popcorn… The Japanese unquestionably love their Disneyland. We visited on a weekday and didn’t expect to be welcomed by such a massive crowd (which mostly consisted of the locals). And when I say massive, I mean two-hour queues for one ride. So if you’re planning on visiting Tokyo Disneyland, come early and beat the crowd for the fast passes (which normally runs out within the first two hours of the park’s opening).
Senso-ji Temple
Senso-ji is a Buddhist temple located in Asakusa, an older and more traditional side of Tokyo. The temple is an amalgam of majestic architecture, place of worship, refined Japanese gardens, and traditional markets that give you an insight of the history and culture of Japan. The architectural splendours that were on display had left us amazed – vibrant, grand, and absolutely stunning. The entry gate known as the Kaminarimon or ‘Thunder Gate’ itself is an outstanding monument that will give you an idea of what to expect further inside.
Due to all the cultural interests, Senso-ji is quite a touristy place, but it’s favorable reputation also means that the temple gives you the opportunity to witness locals participating in rituals, donning yukatas and/or kimonos, and selling various Japanese goods and souvenirs. Senso-ji Temple isn’t a place you should miss, in my opinion.
Nakamise Street
If you are in search of a more genuine Japanese experience at a place filled with authentic Japanese atmosphere to do your shopping, Asakusa, or Nakamise Street to be more specific, is the place to go. Nakamise Street is an adroitly paved pedestrian road which leads right up to the facade of the prestigious Senso-ji Temple. On both sides of this street line the quaint little shops, in traditional Japanese architecture, complete with lanterns and bright red paint. The vast majority of shops along Nakamise street are ones that offer trinkets, Japanese snacks, and traditional Japanese attires. Kimonos, hand held fans, swords, traditional craft works – this famous outdoor shopping street peddles goods and souvenirs harkening back to Japan’s antiquity.
Half way through the street is an intersection, taking you into “Shin Nakamise” which is an arcade hosting more and more shops and stores. Contrasting to the actual Nakamise Street, the shops that line Shin Nakamise are mostly owned by independent fashion and/or arts and craft entrepreneurs. This is my most favorite part of the whole area. You’ll be surprised at some of the beautiful and bizarre things you’ll be able to find after exploring the nooks and crannies of this place. I highly recommend everyone to stay until the sun sets or until the shops close. You’ll be able to witness some unreal and fascinating Japanese art painted on the shutters of each and every one of the shops that line Shin Nakamise.
The Japanese culture and architecture that are immersed into every little corner of Nakamise gives the street a particularly exciting feel. Aside from the pleasures of perusing the street, there is also a lot to see nearby what with the myriad of temples and shrines that are merely just a few minute’s walk away.
Traveling Tips
- Wear comfortable shoes. If you plan on exploring as much of Tokyo as possible during your stay, then I can’t stress enough on how important this is because you will walk a l o t. We walked an average of 15 kilometres (at the very very least) every day, from morning to night.
- Trains and subways only operate until midnight. So plan your day properly if you don’t want to end up spending a bomb on a cab. We once lost track of time (we were busy stuffing our faces) and had to fork out RM200+ for a mere twenty-minute cab ride. And that’s after walking half the journey.
- If you don’t know how much it costs to go to your desired destination via the train/subway, get the cheapest ticket. Most stations have fare adjustments kiosks which will tell you how much $$$ you’re lacking. And if there are no kiosks in sight, you can adjust your ticket fare at the counter on your way out. There are no refunds if you accidentally buy a ticket that costs more than it does to reach your destination.
- Pocket/portable wifi is essential. This little device will make planning your way around Tokyo so much easier, because as I have mentioned, all the different train and subway routes can get more than a little daunting. You can rent your portable wifi from Travel Recommends like we did, and enjoy unlimited 4G wifi with up to five people. Several hosts on Airbnb may also include it when you book with them.
- There were three mobile apps that I used religiously during our trip – NAVITIME for Japan Travel to plan, and map our train routes; Halal Navi to find halal food and places to pray; and the good ol’ Google Maps.
- Spend at least a day to slow down, and embrace the country. Sometimes it’s good to just be in a new and unfamiliar place, sit down, and observe the things around you. Wander around the neighbourhoods and walk aimlessly through the different passages – I find this to be one of the greatest ways to enjoy, and get to know a new place.